I recall first writing about the Piaget Altiplano 900P about one year ago, before I had actually see the watch in person. During my review of the technical specifications, I became slightly annoyed, thinking, "why can't I find the name of the movement, and why can't I find the thickness of just the movement in comparison to the overall thickness of the case!?" These were reasonable questions, only to be answered by the fact that, unlike most watches which have a movement which is then cased, the Piaget Altiplano 900P's movement is actually integrated into the caseback piece of the timepiece's construction.
Of particular interest to me was that the watch he had been given was a very early execution thin-cased DOXA Sub 300 with a prototype US Divers/Aqualung dial. These pieces are incredibly rare, with only 15-20 known to have been produced, and are one of the most desirable models to the small but committed group of DOXA collectors. Furthermore, it was in incredible condition, and I could feel it calling to me from across the country.
Let's take a look at the image above and see how the different layers of the bridges follow one another, giving way to this extremely unlikely blend of traditional watch making elements and modern, never-before-seen shapes. Sounds like high praise, but it is due: near the center, on the bottom of the image is the "keyless works" of the watch, which the crown and its stem slides into, with different cams and springs being laid out around it.
After nearly 7 prototypes of fine tuning dimensions for proper fitment and functionality, I was ready to begin machining the final components. First, it was the turn of the outer case and crown. These components took a fair amount of time to get the proper finishing, although they did turn out beautifully. Every detail from the screw points to the micro engravings inside the case were accounted for, as I wanted to get everything as close as possible.
Like the idea of a Panerai Luminor Marina 1950 watch on this bracelet but want a slightly fancier model? Panerai currently offers a few other timepieces in the same family with this bracelet style that might be more up your alley. The first place people go is to the Panerai Luminor Marina 1950 3 Days Automatic Titanio PAM342. This is essentially the same watch with a slightly brown dial and titanium case - which means it is going to be lighter and more comfortable. Going back to steel, there is also the Luminor 1950 3 Days GMT Automatic PAM329 (with a GMT hand complication) as well as the Luminor 1950 3 Days GMT Power Reserve Automatic PAM347 (that has both a GMT hand and a power reserve indicator).
When it comes to reading the time, however, I still am in the camp that single-hand watches really are just not for me. I realize that this is truly a preferential thing, but I just like knowing the exact time (and no, please do not tell me to check my phone for that), while I know there are plenty of others who enjoy the more relaxed sense of timing that comes from a single hand. If that is you, and you love all things automotive, then the Giuliano Mazzouli Contagiri could just be for you. As seen here (in steel and DLC), the price for the Giuliano Mazzuoli Contagiri comes in at ,000. giulianomazzuoli.it
ABTW: Do you serve mostly locals or tourists, or is it a good mix? Also, what percentage of your customers would you call "knowledgeable watch collectors?"
So let's get the name part out of the way, since I tend to harp on nomenclature (as you probably already know). While this watch is clearly part of the Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde collection, it is mislabeled, as it does not have a "grand second" hand typical of the rest of the collection, but rather a juxtaposed dial, where the hour and minute hands are where the seconds hand would be. Where the hour and minute hands normally are on Grande Seconde models, the Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Tourbillon Aventurine has an exposed tourbillon - which doubles as a second indicator. I feel like I am repeating myself, since I essentially made the same remarks two years ago.
The number one complaint the Swiss watch industry has had toward the most current crop of smartwatches is that they aren't attractive by European design standards - and that even applies to the Apple Watch. Jean-Claude Biver went so far as to suggest that, given his standards, the Apple Watch looks as though it was designed by a student. So if the best breed of smartwatch yet (even though it hasn't even been released at this time) doesn't pass Swiss watch industry muster, what would a smartwatch design by Switzerland's old guard look like?
With only 150 pieces available, the Zenith Academy Georges Favre-Jacot is sure to sell out quickly. At a hefty 45mm across, with a height of 14.35mm on the wrist, it is large enough to catch a curious eye. The cambered sapphire is treated with anti-glare on both sides, so the fusée can be enjoyed with clarity. Although certain elements of the design may split opinion, there is enough to get excited about in terms of quality and uncommonness to warrant a price of ,700. zenith-watches.com
Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Deadbeat Watch
13 Commentsby Ariel Adams
Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Deadbeat Watch
ABTW:Also, what percentage of your customers would you call “knowledgeable watch collectors?”
Recently, aBlogtoWatch reader Griffin C. from Chicago, Illinois, joined me here in Los Angeles for a few days of geeking-out watchnerd-style and to attend The World's Most Expensive Watches book party with us. This was a result of Griffin winning a giveaway prize early in the year that we had intended to experience with him over the summer. Unfortunately, despite our best efforts, the originally planned trip to the watch maker RGM in Pennsylvania was cancelled by RGM, and resulted in a dispute between the company and aBlogtoWatch that the online watch community has discussed a few months ago. Nevertheless, despite the setbacks, I had an obligation to Griffin and wanted to make the most out of the situation.
That is natural, but what Kevin later acknowledged is that in some instances, he purchased watches in advance of his own ability to fully appreciate them. I can relate to the feeling, having spent over a decade of my life thinking about watches and learning new things about horological items and the production thereof. Even though Rose is considered by many people to be a genius, the world of watches presents a formidable learning curve to even the most adept minds. Rose comments that he has already bought and sold many more watches than he still owns. A survey of his current collection reveals something very interesting about Kevin's watches - for the most part, they all reflect his personality very well.
What makes a Navitimer a "Navitimer" is the rotating slide-rule bezel. This retro calculator gives the (skilled) pilot wearer the ability to make a series of calculations, assuming all the instruments in his or her aircraft are down, and he or she is still able to fiddle with a watch during emergency flight. I've heard mixed things from various pilots about whether or not use of a slide-rule is still taught in pilot school. At least a few military pilots claim that it is.
We have covered the smart watch segment with some regularity here. What is sometimes overlooked, however, is that these watches fit into an even larger segment that is commonly referred to as wearable tech or, in other words, bits of tech that are designed to be worn on our person. Fitness trackers also fall into this category, and the watch we have for you today is, in fact, a fitness tracker in a watch format: enter the Wellograph fitness smartwatch.
After the movement selection, the materials used for case construction have the largest cost impact. Those watches aren't going to use 316L (surgical grade) stainless steel or have domed sapphire crystals with anti-reflective coatings. Quality materials cost more – simple as that. A rule of thumb is that every dollar you add in a part's cost results in at least 4 dollars more in the retail price of the watch - for reasons I can go into another time.
The Porsche Design Timepiece No. 1 is the first watch to debut from the new "independent" Porsche Design watch brand. We first spoke about the upcoming Porsche Design Timepiece No. 1 here, when discussing Porsche Design's plans to produce their own watches after breaking up with long-term production partner Eterna.